Candace Young
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107 s. water st., p.o. box 394 / bayboro, nc 28515-0394 / (252) 745-4749

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Prequel:  Flying Kiln
Wiring and plumbing installed in shed
This is the back of the kiln stack, with wiring and plumbing installed.  We have a solenoid switch to shut off the gas in the event of a power hiccup.
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Our new L&L 10 cuft electric kiln.
Our new L&L 10 cu.ft. Electric Kiln, which will primarily used for bisque firings of short loads.
(Click on image to enlarge)
Sprung arch 3/4 removed.
The sprung arch is 3/4 removed, with original arch form in place.  I had layed it up dry, and tuck pointed the exterior edges.  Broke about ten arch bricks getting it apart.
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Arch removed and walls torn down.
The arch is removed and the walls are torn down.  Had to replace hard brick by the burner ports, plus when I rebrick it, I want to put stretcher courses every five layers.  Had problems thru the years with inner course wall separating from the outer wall at the top, where the door closes.
(Click on image to enlarge)
Burner port hard bricks replaced, and going vertical.
Burner port hard bricks replaced, going vertical.  We are rebuilding it with a combination of firebrick.  Candace had traded a piece of equipment for enough K 26 brick to do about seven courses.  They are higher than standard brick, so I layed them on the interior and exterior walls.  When I ran out, I switched to USS Saratoga (CVA 60) boiler brick that I bought cheap from a surplus lot down the street.  They had to be dried out first.  These have the two yellow stripes.  I contacted the manufacturer and found they are K 25 brick.  So I'm laying them on the interior wall, and using recycled k23's from the tear down for the exterior wall.  (Click on image to enlarge)
Arch bricks cleaned, and going vertical.
Arch bricks cleaned, corrosion control to kiln frame, primer to go.  Ordered and recieved a box of #1 arch brick to replace pieces broken in removal.  Also pulled the door and ground hinge tongues on 2 lower hinges to releive some binding that had plagued us for years.
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Grinding out bobble in the brick layer.
I'm grinding out high spots in the brick to keep everything level.  Also, primed the frame when rust was removed.  We also did the test firing on the L&L electric kiln, and it passed with flying colors.
(Click on image to enlarge)
Sprung Arch is in place
The sprung arch is back in place.  A few bricks on the back of the arch to lay.  Will cover arch with two layers of fibrefax for additional insulation.
Rebricking the door is next, then a test fire to dry everything out.
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Door rebricked
The door is rebricked, starting to apply gasket.  Note valve springs at top to form a pressure plate.  There are also 3 horizontal 1/2 inch rods to keep the bricks in.  Peep holes to go.(Click on image to enlarge)
Two layers of Insulwool on the arch.
I have layed two layers of Inswool on the arch of the kiln.
I would like to plug Harbison Walker, out of Charlotte, NC, for great response and support for the arch bricks, mortar, and Inswool.
(Click on image to enlarge)


Burners on a test flight.  Just pilots to drive out and moisture
Plumbed the solenoid valve to the gas, and testing the burners.  Pilots are lit and driving out any moisture, without the damper on.
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The gasket is in the door.
The gasket is in the door and the peep holes drilled.  Fired pilots for six hours.  (Click on image to enlarge)
Raku Kiln Shed roof installed
The Raku Kiln Shed roof is installed.  The Kiln Shed kinda looks like a tobacco barn.   Pouring a base slab and moving the raku kiln to go.  (Click on image to enlarge)
Raku Kiln Moved and test fired
The raku kiln as moved to it's new pad.  Test fired, cut the counterweight block in half for neutral balance.  We fired the Big kiln in a glaze firing and she passed all tests.  We are back in business!
(Click on image to enlarge)
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P.O. Box 394, Bayboro, NC 28515, (252) 745-4749